If you've ever stood in front of a mirror wondering why your skin still looks dull despite a ten-step routine, the answer might not be what you're adding — it's what you're not removing. Dead skin cells accumulate on the surface every single day, and no amount of moisturiser or serum can fully penetrate that barrier if you're not exfoliating properly. That's where chemical exfoliants come in.
You've probably seen the acronyms AHA and BHA on product labels, blog posts, and social media reels. Both are powerhouse ingredients backed by decades of dermatological research. But they work in fundamentally different ways, target different skin concerns, and deliver different results. Choosing the wrong one won't necessarily harm your skin, but choosing the right one can transform it.
Let's break down exactly how each one works, which skin concerns they address best, and how to build them into a routine that actually delivers results.
What Are AHAs?
Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) are water-soluble acids derived from natural sources — sugarcane, milk, fruits, and almonds. The most widely used AHAs in skincare include glycolic acid, lactic acid, and mandelic acid.
AHAs work on the skin's surface. They dissolve the bonds holding dead cells together on the outermost layer of the epidermis, encouraging them to shed more efficiently. This process — known as chemical exfoliation — reveals the fresher, more even-toned skin underneath.
AHAs are ideal if your primary concerns are:
- Dull, lacklustre skin that looks tired or flat
- Uneven skin tone and hyperpigmentation
- Fine lines and early signs of ageing
- Rough, flaky texture
- Sun-damaged skin with dark spots
Glycolic acid is the gold standard among AHAs because of its small molecular size, which allows it to penetrate effectively and deliver visible results quickly. It accelerates cell turnover, stimulates collagen production over time, and helps fade post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.
The REFORM Skincare Glycolic Acid Foaming Cleanser is a perfect example of how to integrate AHA exfoliation into your daily routine without adding extra steps. Formulated with 10% Glycolic Acid, this daily foaming cleanser removes makeup, excess oil, and impurities while gently sloughing away dead skin cells. It supports skin renewal, improves texture and tone, and leaves skin feeling deeply cleansed and visibly glowing — making it an ideal first step in any clarifying or anti-ageing routine.
What Are BHAs?
Beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) are oil-soluble acids, and salicylic acid is the most common BHA used in skincare. That oil solubility is the critical difference. While AHAs work on the skin's surface, BHAs can penetrate into the pore lining, dissolving the sebum and debris that cause congestion from the inside out.
BHAs are ideal if your primary concerns are:
- Acne and active breakouts
- Blackheads and whiteheads
- Enlarged or clogged pores
- Excess oil production
- Inflammation and redness associated with blemishes
Because salicylic acid is also anti-inflammatory and antibacterial, it doesn't just clear existing breakouts — it helps prevent new ones from forming. It's the go-to ingredient for anyone dealing with oily, congestion-prone skin.
The REFORM Skincare Salicylic Acid Foaming Cleanser is purpose-built for this skin type. Its lightweight, non-drying formula works deep within the pores to reduce blackheads, unclog congestion, and prevent breakouts — all while leaving skin feeling refreshed, purified, and balanced rather than stripped. It's the perfect daily foundation for any acne-fighting routine.
For targeted treatment beyond cleansing, the REFORM Skincare Anti-Blemish Crème takes BHA a step further. Powered by 10% Niacinamide alongside Salicylic Acid and Zinc, this lightweight crème strengthens the skin barrier, regulates oil production, and combats acne-causing bacteria. It also works to fade post-acne marks and dark spots — addressing both active breakouts and the scarring they leave behind.
AHA vs. BHA: A Side-by-Side Comparison
| Feature | AHA (e.g., Glycolic Acid) | BHA (e.g., Salicylic Acid) |
|---|---|---|
| Solubility | Water-soluble | Oil-soluble |
| Where it works | Skin's surface | Deep within pores |
| Best for | Dullness, texture, ageing, pigmentation | Acne, blackheads, oiliness, congestion |
| Anti-inflammatory | Mild | Strong |
| Suitable for oily skin | Yes, but not targeted | Specifically designed for it |
| Suitable for dry/mature skin | Excellent choice | Can be drying if overused |
| Sun sensitivity | Increases it (SPF is essential) | Minimal increase |
Can You Use Both?
Yes — and in many cases, you should. AHAs and BHAs complement each other beautifully when used strategically. If you're dealing with acne and post-acne dark spots, for example, a BHA addresses the breakouts while an AHA fades the marks they leave behind.
The REFORM Skincare Repair & Renew Gel is an excellent example of this multi-acid approach. This gentle at-home peeling solution is formulated with a blend of effective acids to resurface, refine, and revitalise the skin. It's ideal for brightening dull skin, smoothing uneven texture, and reducing congestion — and it's effective on both the face and body, making it a standout for addressing body breakouts, keratosis pilaris, and ingrown hairs.
However, layering multiple exfoliants without a plan can lead to over-exfoliation — redness, sensitivity, peeling, and a compromised skin barrier. Here are some guidelines:
- Alternate days. Use your AHA cleanser in the morning and your BHA treatment at night, or alternate days entirely.
- Listen to your skin. Tingling is normal; stinging, burning, or persistent redness means you need to scale back.
- Start slow. If you're new to chemical exfoliants, introduce one at a time and give your skin two to three weeks to adjust before adding the second.
The Non-Negotiable: Protect and Repair Your Barrier
Chemical exfoliation accelerates cell turnover, which means your fresh, newly revealed skin is more vulnerable — particularly to UV damage. Two things become absolutely essential when you're using AHAs or BHAs:
1. Sunscreen, Every Day
AHAs in particular increase photosensitivity, making daily SPF protection non-negotiable. The REFORM Skincare SPF 50+ Antioxidant Sunscreen provides broad-spectrum protection while delivering antioxidant benefits that complement your exfoliation routine.
2. Hydration and Barrier Support
Exfoliation without adequate hydration is a recipe for irritation. Your skin barrier needs support to stay resilient while you're increasing cell turnover. The REFORM Skincare Vitamin B5 Gel is an ideal companion to any exfoliation routine. Infused with Hyaluronic Acid and Vitamin B5 (Panthenol), this oil-free gel replenishes moisture, calms irritation, and strengthens the skin's natural barrier — without clogging pores.
For those with very dry or compromised skin — or anyone who's overdone it with exfoliation — the REFORM Skincare Skin Barrier Repair Cream provides intensive relief. Formulated with Urea, Lactic Acid, Vitamin E, and Pro-Vitamin B5, it delivers deep hydration while gently promoting natural exfoliation to smooth and renew rough, flaky skin. It's the safety net your barrier needs.
Building Your Routine: A Quick Guide by Skin Concern
Concern: Dull, ageing, or sun-damaged skin
→ Start with the Glycolic Acid Foaming Cleanser daily, pair with the Retinol 1% Crème at night for enhanced cell renewal, and protect with SPF every morning.
Concern: Oily, acne-prone skin
→ Cleanse daily with the Salicylic Acid Foaming Cleanser, treat with the Anti-Blemish Crème, and use the Repair & Renew Gel two to three times per week for deeper exfoliation.
Concern: Combination skin with multiple issues
→ Alternate between the Glycolic Acid and Salicylic Acid cleansers, support hydration with the Vitamin B5 Gel, and add the Repair & Renew Gel weekly.
The Bottom Line
AHAs and BHAs aren't competitors — they're teammates that play different positions. AHAs resurface, brighten, and smooth. BHAs purify, unclog, and calm. The best results come from understanding what your skin actually needs and choosing the right acid for the job.
The key is to start with one, be consistent, protect your skin with SPF, and support your barrier with proper hydration. With the right approach, chemical exfoliation isn't harsh or intimidating — it's the most effective route to clearer, healthier, more radiant skin.
Explore the full range of clinically formulated exfoliants and treatments at reformskincare.com.
