By Dr Naomi Mackle, Dermatology Specialist and Medical Director, Adare Dermatology Clinics
Peptides are everywhere right now. Serums, eye creams and moisturisers promise that these “signalling” ingredients will tell your skin to make more collagen, smooth wrinkles and even rival injectables. It is one of the biggest buzzwords in skincare.
Peptides are short chains of amino acids, the building blocks of proteins such as collagen and elastin. In skincare, they are included on the theory that they can send messages to skin cells, prompting repair and renewal.
The one question this article answers is simple: do peptides really work for anti-ageing? As a dermatology specialist-led brand, REFORM Skincare’s approach is to look honestly at the evidence rather than the marketing. So here is what the research shows, where its limits lie, and why we have chosen other ingredients for now.
What peptides are, and what they claim to do
Cosmetic peptides are usually grouped into four types:
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Signal peptides, such as palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, which claim to stimulate collagen production;
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Carrier peptides, such as copper peptides (GHK-Cu), which deliver trace minerals involved in wound healing;
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Neurotransmitter-inhibiting peptides, such as acetyl hexapeptide-8, marketed as a topical alternative to anti-wrinkle injections;
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Enzyme-inhibiting peptides, which claim to slow the breakdown of collagen.
Peptides are also increasingly promoted for barrier repair and hydration.
What the evidence actually shows
Peptides are not a fantasy ingredient. There is laboratory research showing that certain peptides can influence skin cells in a dish, and a handful of clinical studies have reported modest improvements in the appearance of fine lines. But when you look closely, the evidence has important limitations.
Penetration is a real hurdle. Peptides are relatively large molecules, and the skin barrier is designed to keep such molecules out. Whether enough of a peptide reaches the living layers of the skin, in an active form, to change collagen production is still uncertain.
The clinical studies are small and short. Many trials involve small numbers of participants, last only a few weeks, and are funded by the companies that make the ingredient. Independent, long-term studies are scarce.
Results are modest. Where improvements are seen, they tend to be subtle, and often comparable to what a good moisturiser achieves by simply hydrating the skin.
The “injectable in a jar” claim does not hold up. There is no convincing evidence that a topical peptide relaxes muscles in the way anti-wrinkle injections do.
More broadly, I would question whether any topical product can meaningfully stimulate new collagen. In contrast, the evidence for sunscreen, L-ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and retinoids in preventing and improving photoageing is strong, consistent and built over decades. For barrier repair, too, there are ingredients with far better evidence behind them.
Who peptides suit, and who should be cautious
Peptides are generally very well tolerated, so in principle they suit almost anybody. Irritation is uncommon, which is one reason they are often marketed to people with sensitive skin.
The caution is less about safety and more about expectations and value. Peptides are a genuine buzzword at the moment, and there is a risk they have been oversold. If you are paying a premium for a peptide product, or using it instead of ingredients with a stronger track record, you may be spending money on hope rather than evidence.
That does not mean peptides don’t work. It means we don’t yet know how well they work, and my advice is to build your routine around the products with the highest level of evidence first.
Why REFORM doesn’t use peptides (yet)
I am not anti-peptides. I simply don’t believe the evidence is there yet, either in skincare or in the injectable peptide treatments that are gaining popularity. Many brands have jumped on the bandwagon, but our formulations are built on ingredients that have been around for a long time and are known to work.
L-ascorbic acid, sunscreen, retinol, hyaluronic acid and niacinamide have well-established roles in hydrating the skin, restoring the barrier, and improving photoageing, redness and pigmentation. For barrier repair specifically, REFORM uses hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, our Vitamin B5 Gel and Phytobotanical Gel, and a dedicated Skin Barrier Repair Cream containing a high percentage of urea with lactic acid.
One argument often made for peptides is that they are gentler than retinol, which some patients worry will irritate their skin. REFORM addresses this differently. Our retinoid is 1% retinyl palmitate, a very gentle retinol ester that can be used every night on the face, around the eyes and on the neck. Our philosophy has always been that consistent, well-tolerated use over time matters more than short bursts of a harsh product.
By contrast, I am cautious about tretinoin. In my experience it very often compromises the skin barrier, and I don’t believe that is good for skin in the long term. If you want active resurfacing, it is better to come into the clinic for a CO2 laser or TCA peel and get it over with, rather than living with low-level peeling every day.
How to introduce peptides safely
If you would like to try a peptide product, it is straightforward. Peptides can be introduced daily from the start, and patch testing isn’t routinely necessary for most people, although, as with any new product, stop using it if your skin becomes irritated. There are no well-established ingredients that you need to avoid combining them with.
The key is to use a peptide product alongside, not instead of, the essentials: daily broad-spectrum sunscreen, an antioxidant such as vitamin C, and a retinoid at night.
The takeaway
Peptides may well have a place in skincare, but the evidence is currently weak, so our position is to watch this space. Before choosing any product, be clear about what you are trying to achieve. For fine lines, wrinkles, pigmentation or redness, there are very good, well-proven products available.
It is also important to understand that every topical product, even the really good ones, has limits. Great skincare makes a real difference and helps maintain the results of treatments. But if you want to look your best as you get older, you will still need clinical treatments such as medical microneedling, radiofrequency microneedling and lasers, and for some people anti-wrinkle injections or fillers.
If you would like advice on the right combination for your skin, book a consultation at Adare Dermatology Clinics in Dublin, Limerick or London.
