If you've spent any time browsing the skincare aisle — or, more likely, scrolling through reviews at midnight — you've almost certainly come across glycolic acid. It turns up in cleansers, toners, serums, peels and pads, usually alongside claims about "glow", "resurfacing" and "cell renewal". It's one of the most written-about ingredients in modern skincare, and one of the most misunderstood.
So what actually is it, what can it genuinely do for your skin, and which REFORM Skincare products contain it? Here's everything you need to know.
What Is Glycolic Acid?
Glycolic acid is an alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). AHAs are a family of water-soluble acids derived from natural sources, and glycolic acid is the smallest of them all — its molecule is tiny compared with other AHAs such as lactic or mandelic acid.
That small molecular size matters. Because it's so compact, glycolic acid penetrates the skin more readily than larger acids, which is why it's often described as the hardest-working AHA in the group.
It's typically derived from sugar cane, though it can also be produced synthetically for use in cosmetics. In skincare, it appears in concentrations ranging from around 5% in gentle daily products up to 20% or more in professional-strength peels.
The way it works is straightforward. Rather than physically scrubbing dead cells away, glycolic acid dissolves the "glue" that holds dead skin cells together on the surface of your skin. Once that bond is broken, those dull, dead cells shed naturally, revealing fresher skin underneath. This process is known as chemical exfoliation, and it's the foundation of almost every benefit glycolic acid offers.
What Are the Benefits for Skin?
Brighter, more even tone. By clearing away the build-up of dead cells that dulls the complexion, glycolic acid helps restore radiance. If your skin looks tired or lacklustre, this is often the most immediate change you'll notice.
Smoother texture. Roughness, bumpiness and those tiny raised spots that never quite become a full breakout often come down to a build-up of dead skin. Regular chemical exfoliation smooths the surface and refines the way light reflects off your skin.
Improved appearance of fine lines. Glycolic acid stimulates the skin's renewal process, encouraging fresher cells to the surface. With consistent use, this can soften the look of fine lines and give skin a plumper appearance.
Fading of pigmentation and dark marks. Uneven pigmentation — whether from sun exposure, past breakouts or hormonal changes — sits in the upper layers of the skin. Because glycolic acid accelerates the shedding of those layers, it can help reduce the appearance of dark spots and post-blemish marks over time.
Fewer clogged pores. Glycolic acid helps break down the debris that blocks pores, which can reduce congestion and the likelihood of spots forming.
Better absorption of everything else. Once the surface layer of dead cells is cleared, the products you apply afterwards — serums, moisturisers, treatments — can penetrate more effectively. Glycolic acid essentially clears the path for the rest of your routine.
A note of caution: glycolic acid makes skin more sensitive to the sun, so daily SPF isn't optional — it's essential. Start slowly, perhaps two or three times a week, and build up as your skin tolerates it. If you have sensitive skin, eczema or rosacea, or you're using prescription retinoids, introduce it cautiously or seek advice from a dermatologist first.
Which REFORM Skincare Products Contain Glycolic Acid?
REFORM Skincare builds its formulas around evidence-based actives, and glycolic acid plays a central role in two of its products.
Glycolic Acid Foaming Cleanser
The brand's best-selling daily exfoliating cleanser, and the most straightforward way to introduce glycolic acid into your routine.
Infused with 10% glycolic acid, this pH-balanced formula removes makeup, excess oil and impurities while softly sloughing away dead skin cells. It's designed to be gentle enough for daily use while still delivering genuine exfoliation — a balance that's harder to strike than it sounds, since many acid cleansers either under-deliver or leave skin feeling stripped.
The result is skin that feels deeply cleansed, refreshed and visibly glowing, with improved texture and tone over time. It's positioned as the first step in a clarifying or anti-ageing routine, and it's a sensible entry point if you're new to AHAs: the contact time is short, the formula rinses away, and you're not leaving a high-strength acid sitting on your skin all day.
How to use: apply one to two pumps to dry or damp skin, massage gently into a lather, then rinse thoroughly with water.
Repair & Renew Gel
For those who want something more intensive, Repair & Renew Gel is a radiance-boosting resurfacing treatment — essentially an at-home peeling solution.
It contains glycolic acid alongside mandelic acid (a gentler AHA derived from bitter almonds) and phytic acid (a mild plant-derived exfoliant and antioxidant). Together, these three acids work on different levels: glycolic acid penetrates deeply to accelerate cell turnover and smooth rough texture, mandelic acid offers gentler exfoliation with less irritation, and phytic acid helps dissolve dead cells while providing antioxidant support.
The result is fresher, more radiant skin and improved clarity — without the downtime associated with in-clinic peels. If you've had professional treatments and want to maintain the results, or if your skin has grown used to a daily acid cleanser and you're ready to step up, this is the natural next step.
How to Choose Between Them
If you're building a routine from scratch, the Glycolic Acid Foaming Cleanser is the logical starting point — it's low-effort, suitable for daily use and delivers cumulative benefits over time.
If you've already been using AHAs and want a more targeted treatment, or you're specifically concerned with texture, pigmentation and signs of ageing, the Repair & Renew Gel offers a more concentrated approach.
And if you want both? They can work together, but not on the same day when you're starting out. Alternate them, or use the cleanser in the morning and reserve the gel for two or three evenings a week.
The Bottom Line
Glycolic acid is one of the most thoroughly researched ingredients in skincare, and for good reason. Its small molecular size lets it penetrate effectively, dissolving the bonds that hold dead skin cells in place to reveal a brighter, smoother, more even complexion. It helps with texture, tone, pigmentation, fine lines and congestion — and it clears the way for the rest of your routine to work harder.
REFORM Skincare uses it in two well-considered formats: a 10% Glycolic Acid Foaming Cleanser for daily, gentle exfoliation, and a Repair & Renew Gel for more intensive resurfacing. Whichever you choose, start slowly, always wear SPF, and give your skin a few weeks to show you what it can do.
This article is for general information only and is not a substitute for personalised advice from a qualified dermatologist or skincare professional.
